Exploring Shiga Prefecture: Unveiling Japanese Spirituality through Noh
Spirituality and religious values have long been intertwined with the cultural tapestry of Japan, finding expression in various art forms and traditions. Among these, Noh theatre stands out as a profound embodiment of Japanese spirituality. Our journey to unravel the spiritual essence embedded within Noh leads us through the picturesque landscapes and sacred sites of Shiga Prefecture, where echoes of this timeless art resonate. Join us on this journey this immersive exploration, a one-night, two-day journey that promises to uncover Japan's spiritual heritage through the lens of Noh theatre.
Day 1
Cruise to Chikubu Island
Our trip commences with a serene cruise to Chikubu Island, a small isle nestled within Lake Biwa, spanning approximately 2 kilometers in circumference. Also known as the island where gods reside, aptly encapsulates the mystical aura that enshrouds the entire island.
This mystical isle serves as the setting for the Noh performance known as "Chikubushima," a captivating tale steeped in local folklore. Against the backdrop of sacred temples, the narrative unfolds, featuring the revered deity Benzaiten* and the dragon deity dwelling beneath the island's waters. Their mythical presence promises salvation for the people and safeguarding of the country. Visiting Chikubu Island not only allows you to immerse yourself in this captivating narrative but also provides insight into a historical period where Shintoism and Buddhism thrived side by side.
*A member of the Seven Lucky Gods, goddess of all that flows such as water, music, arts, fortune.
Hogonji Temple Main Hall
Perched at the pinnacle of the steps on Chikubu Island, the Hogonji Temple's main hall stands as a sacred sanctuary, housing the primary deity, Benzaiten. Recognized as oldest of the Three Great Benzaiten of Japan, this ancient and revered Benzaiten is fondly referred to as the Daibenzaiten. Enclosed within the main hall, known as the Benzaiten Hall, this deity is revealed to the public only once every 60 years, with the next unveiling scheduled for the year 2037.
Visitors partake in a unique wish-making tradition by inscribing their desires on paper, which is then placed inside daruma dolls and offered as tokens of prayer. These charming, crimson daruma dolls form a delightful spectacle, symbolizing the collective hopes and aspirations of those who visit this site.
Three-tiered Pagoda and Treasure Hall
Adjacent to the main hall, a short stroll leads to the Three-tired Pagoda and the treasure trove of island's cultural wealth – the Treasure Hall.
This repository also boasts an extensive collection of temple treasures and items related to Noh drama, making it a must-visit for enthusiasts of Noh theatre.
Kara-mon Gate
Descending the steps for a short stroll, the enchanting Kara-mon Gate unveils itself – a national treasure deeply rooted in the legacy of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. A feudal warlord of great influence, Hideyoshi not only left an indelible mark on the political landscape of Japan but also devoted himself to the preservation and promotion of the art of Noh, distinguishing himself as a performer of this ancient theatrical tradition.
Originally part of the Gokurakubashi Bridge at Osaka Castle, a structure commissioned by Hideyoshi himself, the Kara-mon Gate stands as the sole surviving remnant of the once-grand Osaka Castle. The gate's intricate Momoyama-style carvings and vivid patterns offer a glimpse into the aesthetic preferences of the era, showcasing the opulence and sophistication that defined Hideyoshi's architectural pursuits.
Chikubu Island Hogonji Temple
- Place
- 1664-1 Hayazaki-cho, Nagahama-shi, Shiga
- Access
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From Nagahama, Hikone, and Imazu ports, the ferry ride takes approximately 25 to 40 minutes.
*For ferry schedule information, please refer to the respective ferry company's website:
Biwako Kisen: Departures and arrivals from Nagahama Port and Imazu Port
Omi Marine: Departures and arrivals from Hikone Port - Link
- https://www.chikubushima.jp/english/
Chikubushima Shrine
Connected to the Kara-mon Gate by the Funa Roka Corridor is the Chikubusima Shrine, which offers a glimpse into the spiritual heart of Japan with enshrines gods such as Ichikishimahime (Benzaiten), Uga Fukujin, Chikubushima Dragon, and Asaihime, the local god who governs Lake Biwa's waters.
Here, you can partake in the tradition of "Kawarake Nage," where you write your wishes on pieces of unglazed earthenware dishes, and throw them to pass through the torii gate for your wishes to come true.
Chikubusima Shrine
- Place
- 1665 Hayazaki-cho, Nagahama-shi, Shiga
- Access
-
From Nagahama, Hikone, and Imazu ports, the ferry ride takes approximately 25 to 40 minutes.
*For ferry schedule information, please refer to the respective ferry company's website:
Biwako Kisen: Departures and arrivals from Nagahama Port and Imazu Port
Omi Marine: Departures and arrivals from Hikone Port
Kurokabe Square
After disembarking from the cruise upon our return to Nagahama port, our journey leads us to the vibrant ambiance of Kurokabe Square.
One cannot overlook the gastronomic marvels awaiting exploration, including the delectable Yakisaba Somen—a fusion of roasted mackerel atop somen noodles—honoring local traditions and culinary craftsmanship. In Nagahama, the custom of "Gogatsu Mimai" sees families delivering roasted mackerel to daughters who have married into farming households, making it a beloved dish and a staple of regional cuisine offered during festivities.
Kurokabe Square
- Place
- 12-38 Motohama-cho, Nagahama-shi, Shiga
- Access
- 5-minute walk from JR Nagahama Station
Check the following link for more information about how to travel around Chikubu Island!
Journey through Nohgaku
https://www.nohgaku.or.jp/en/journey/shima_chikubu
Day 2
Now that we have visited places that the Noh was based on, it's time to see the actual Noh stage. To kick off the second day of our trip, we began by taking a leisurely stroll around Yume-Kyobashi Castle Road, conveniently located near Hikone Castle.
Yume-Kyobashi Castle Road
Located to the southwest of Hikone Castle, Yume-Kyobashi Castle Road runs directly south on the outer side of Kyobashi, a bridge that spans over the outer moat. Strolling along, we are transported back in time to the Edo period, where the echoes of samurai valor and cultural refinement resonate through the cobblestone streets.
Restaurants found in this area offer many dishes with Omi Beef, one of the three great Japanese beefs.
Strolling along the street, you might stumble upon adorable vending machines offering unique finds exclusive to this area. Today's discovery? Funazushi, a local fermented sushi, and cans of candy. It's always a delight to find such cute treasures!
For our next stop, we visited Hikone Castle, one of Japan's best-preserved castles.
Hikone Castle
Hikone Castle Museum
Within the confines of the Hikone Castle double moat is where you can find the Hikone Castle Museum. Here, within the halls of the Hikone Castle Museum, the legacy of the castle's former lords unfolds in a rich tapestry of exhibits. Amidst authentic art, crafts, and ancient documents passed down through generations of the Ii clan, lords of the Hikone Domain, lies the vivid preservation of Noh theatre tradition. Visitors are transported into the world of this ancient art form through captivating exhibits of Noh masks and costumes. Step into the reconstructed main palace, once the hub of the domain's governance, and encounter a Noh stage dating back to the Edo period (1603-1867). Additionally, immerse yourself in the ambiance of the time as you wander through faithfully recreated spaces, including the lord's living room, tea room, and garden.
Choshoan Tea House
Nestled within the peaceful castle grounds is the Choshoan Tea House, offering a haven for traditional tea ceremonies—a quintessential expression of Japanese spirituality and elegance. Here, as we indulge in the subtle nuances of matcha and exquisite sweets, we are immersed in the essence of Japanese harmony and tranquility.
Hikone Castle / Hikone Castle Museum
- Place
- 1-1 Konki-cho, Hikone-shi, Shiga
- Access
- 15-minute walk from JR Hikone Station
- Link
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https://visit-omi.com/poi/article/hikone-castle/
https://hikone-castle-museum.jp/en/
Check the following link for more information about the relationship between Hikone Castle and Noh!
Journey through Nohgaku
https://www.nohgaku.or.jp/en/journey/hikone_castle
In the peaceful settings of Shiga Prefecture, among ancient stories and reminders of the past, Noh theater embodies Japanese spirituality. Here, surrounded by sacred places and historic castles, we catch a glimpse of timeless truths that resonate across generations, shaping the essence of Japanese culture.