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Situated in Niigata, Japan, Echigo-Tsumari Art Field stands as a pioneer in celebrating regional art festivals. Held in the serene Echigo-Tsumari area, this region seamlessly marries idyllic rural communities with contemporary art, creating an extraordinary fusion of tradition and innovation.
Today, we embark on a journey to immerse ourselves in the captivating local culture and fourishing art scene of the Echigo-Tsumari region, with Japan-based content creator Frankie.

Day 1: Essence of the Region

Before we start looking at the artworks dotted around the region, our expedition commenced with a deep dive into the essence of this remarkable region with a local tour guide. The rice terraces here, devoid of natural water sources, solely rely on the blessings of rainfall to sustain their lush greenery.
Our first stop was the enchanting Gimyo Rice Terraces, a place where local farmers have inherited and diligently preserved the land for generations, cultivating it as their livelihood.

Frankie was awestruck by the terraces' architectural beauty, envisioning the mesmerizing transformation with each season. She expressed her desire to witness the cherry blossoms casting delicate reflections on the water during spring.

As we strolled along the inner roads, our guides pointed out various edible plants like myoga and sansho. They explained how the heavy snowfall in the area contributes to the delectable mountain vegetables that grace springtime tables.

Our final stop on the walking tour was the Gamo Rice Terraces. Here, we enjoyed a brief break, gazing upon the sprawling beauty of the terraced landscape and surrounding nature. Our guides brewed tea using the kuromoji we had collected along the way.
"It has a wonderful fragrance, reminiscent of herbal medicine," Frankie noted.

After the tea break, a local resident shared insights into maintaining the terraced paddy fields. Beyond their stunning aesthetics, these terraces play a vital role in the local ecosystem by providing habitat, managing nature-related challenges, and preserving a cultural legacy that must endure for generations.
"Incredible to hear firsthand the deep love locals have for this land and their commitment to preserving the natural environment," Frankie reflected.

As the sun dipped behind the mountains, it was time to head to our accommodation for the night. We chose to stay at Ubusuna House, one of artworks of Echigo-Tsumari Art Field, a charming thatched-roof building that has been transformed into a ceramic art museum and a restaurant. The house boasts a range of ceramic art pieces, from the kamado oven and irori hearth to the sink and bath.

Operated primarily by local women, Ubusuna House served us dishes prepared with locally sourced ingredients, each on beautiful dishes that are also a part of the ceramic collection of the museum.

"I'm delighted to have tried the myoga the guides mentioned on the tour; you can taste the freshness of each vegetable," Frankie commented. "The term 'Okasan,' or mother, used by the staff, and the warmth of our interactions, make me feel like I have a Japanese mother taking care of me here."

Day 2: Immersing in Art

Following a hearty breakfast at Ubusuna House, we set out for a day filled with art and inspiration.
One of the enchanting aspects of the Echigo-Tsumari Art Field is the way art is seamlessly integrated into the natural surroundings. The entire area feels like an open-air museum, emphasizing that art can be discovered everywhere.
Our first stop was a picturesque park adorned with outdoor artworks, including the Pavillon, a reflective stage designed for Noh or Kyogen performances.

Frankie marveled at how the festival beautifully melded each artwork into the idyllic satoyama landscapes. She pointed out "A Small House-Don't forget to listen to-" by Ito Yoshiaki, a cozy nook nestled across from a lone tree by the water. "The intimate connection you feel while observing it is truly fascinating," she remarked.

Next, we headed to the Museum on Echigo-Tsumari (MonET) which exhibits numerous artworks and is a base facility that serves as a gateway to Echigo-Tsumari Art Field.

Frankie enthusiastically shared her thoughts: "The museum offers an abundance of artistic experiences. I was thrilled to encounter works by artists I'm familiar with, like Leandro Erlich's impressive centerpiece. I also appreciated the art that thoughtfully incorporated the local landscape and soundscape."

After our museum exploration, we ventured to the Golden Playroom, a seemingly old traditional Japanese house in appearance, but upon entering, the entire interior gleamed in gold, from the walls to even the toilets. This whimsical spot was adorned with vintage Japanese game-related items, old slot machines, and nostalgic games available for play.

Frankie shared her delight: "The room exuded an eerie yet exciting vibe. It’s a blast to dive into the world of these vintage games – a rare find even in Japan."

Our next destination was the Matsudai NOHBUTAI, where art, food, and the terraced rice fields took center stage. Here, we encountered world-class artworks, including Ilya & Emilia Kabakov's Terraced Paddy Fields and Kusama Yayoi's artwork “Tsumari in Bloom”.

Frankie reflected, "It's evident that this region deeply values its land and its beauty through the lens of these artworks."

Lunch awaited us at Echigo-Matsudai Satoyama Shokudo, a restaurant that also doubles as an artwork within the museum. Here, we indulged in a buffet featuring dishes infused with local flavors and home-style cooking, all prepared with locally sourced vegetables.

As luck would have it, we stumbled upon a local festival at Senju Shrine. The grounds buzzed with food stalls, games, and locals of all ages, from children to the elderly. Once a year, this shrine hosts an autumn festival, featuring the shrine maiden's ceremonial dance, regional performances, and mikoshi (portable shrine) processions through town. The night culminated in a breathtaking display of fireworks, drawing the community out to the streets.

Frankie shared her heartfelt sentiments: "I've attended several major festivals, but nothing felt as genuinely local as this. I adore the warmth and unity that permeates the community during these festivities."

The autumn festival spanned two days, with the ceremonial dance reprised, followed by a special event called fukumaki where shrine personnel threw snacks and candies blessed by their gods to the locals to share good fortune.

Art, Culture, and Unity

Our two-day journey through Echigo-Tsumari has unveiled a captivating blend of art, culture, and community. From the mesmerizing rice terraces to the seamless integration of art into nature, we've witnessed the enduring connection between tradition and innovation. As we bid farewell to Echigo-Tsumari, we carry cherished memories of a place where art, culture, and community harmonize to create an unforgettable tapestry.