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Article

Staff Editor’s Note

Feature: Crafts

Located in west-central Honshu, Japan's mainland, Toyama Prefecture faces the Sea of Japan. The journey to Toyama's capital city takes about two and a half hours by Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station via Nagano (stopping at Toyama Station), offering pleasant coast and mountain views along the way.

Toyama is a popular travel destination known for its abundant seafood and stunning natural landscapes, such as the Kurobe Gorge, but did you know that it is also famous for its kogei (Japanese crafts)? The Hokuriku Region, home to Toyama, is historically recognized as a major hub for kogei production in Japan. Toyama is renowned for its metalwork, urushi lacquerware, wood carving, Japanese paper, glasswork, and more.
Read on as we highlight Toyama's treasures, including its kogei and natural wonders.

Toyama City

Toyama – The City of Glass

Toyama City is the city of glass. A title rooted in its rich history of glassmaking, which has been integral to the development of local industries and medicine. Before the mid-1940s, a cluster of glassmaking factories thrived around Toyama station. Now, the city has glass studios where visitors can try to create their own glasswork for those up for a challenge.

A 15-minute ride on a retro-style tram from Toyama station takes you to a cultural complex designed by the internationally acclaimed architect Kuma Kengo, the Toyama Kirari. Contrary to its exterior, the interior of the building surprises with locally sourced cedar wood panels, creating an atmosphere of openness. The complex houses the Toyama City Public Library and the Toyama Glass Art Museum.
The museum boasts a collection of contemporary glassworks from the 1950s onwards by Japanese and international artists, featuring regular special exhibitions and a permanent display of creations by Dale Chihuly and his studio.

TOYAMA KIRARI

Fugan Canal Kansui Park – An Ideal Location for Cherry Blossom-Viewing

A 10-minute walk from the north exit of Toyama Station will take you to Fugan Canal Kansui Park. Completed in 1934, the canal stretches for approximately 5km alongside the Jinzu River from Kansui Park to Iwase, an area overlooking Toyama Bay.

Kansui Park, with its expansive greenery and serene waterfront, offers a tranquil retreat. It is a good place for a pleasant walk throughout the year. However, a visit in spring is highly recommended to witness the spectacular bloom of thousands of cherry trees along the canal and by the Itachi River, a tributary of the Jinzu River.

Kansui Park in spring.
Itachi Riverbank in spring lined with cherry trees

While Toyama City boasts a well-developed tramway system, I opted for a different experience by taking the Fugan Suijo Line cruise boat from Kansui Park and journeying down the canal to the Iwase district. This gentle and relaxing hour-long cruise offers a unique opportunity to view kingfishers and other birds along the canal.

Located at the halfway point is the Nakajima Lock. Built in 1935, this wooden structure was designated Japan's first Important Cultural Property in 1998 from the Showa era (1926-1989). The lock expertly regulates water levels upstream and downstream, adjusting the height to ensure smooth boat navigation. Experiencing the lock's 2.5-meter elevation change while onboard is akin to riding a water lift – a truly unique sensation!

Nakajima Lock Operation House
Chamber gates open and close to adjust water levels.

Iwase district: Travel back a hundred years in time

After navigating for another half an hour from the Nakajima Lock, I reached Iwase, my final destination on the canal cruise.

Iwase prospered as a port of call for the Kitamae-bune – merchant ships that sailed between Osaka and Hokkaido along the Sea of Japan route from the mid-18th to the end of the 19th century. Kitamae-bune ships conducted business en route, selling their cargo and procuring local goods at each stop. Rice was mainly loaded from Toyama, and seafood products such as kelp were brought from Hokkaido.

The Iwase district is about a 10-minute walk from the boat's docking point. It is an impressive Japanese heritage area with surviving historical buildings, including residences and warehouses once owned by Kitamae-bune shipping agents.
The residences of the Mori and Baba families, both successful shipping agents, are open to the public, providing a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the people from a hundred years ago.
The Baba residence, a designated Important Cultural Property, is akin to a time capsule.
The current building, rebuilt after a fire in 1873, incorporates the original Edo period (1603-1868) materials that survived the flames. Archives, such as documents and photographs, along with large antique safes, are on display, illuminating the family's prosperity and history.

Entering the large hall, I felt like I had returned to the days when sea trade flourished.

For refreshments, try the locally brewed craft beer at the pub renovated from a rice warehouse located in the backyard. A must-try is the Dragon Ale, made from lees that were leftovers from local sake production. Light and refreshing, it is a one-of-a-kind drink that can only be tasted here.

Iwase District
The Baba family residence’s great hall – about 54㎡. Long and unbroken beams are impressive.
KOBO Brew Pub

Iwase district's main street is lined with buildings dating back from the Meiji (1868-1912) and Taisho (1912-1926) periods. Many have been transformed into cafés or shops, vividly bringing the district's history to life.
I took the tram route back to the city center. The tram, a much-loved and convenient transport system, offers an easy way to navigate the city. A day pass is available, ideal for those planning to visit multiple locations in the city. Be sure to check it out. (See information below)

One last tip: visit the observatory atop the Toyama City Hall for a stunning 360-degree panoramic view of the Tateyama Mountain Range on a clear day. I highly recommend stopping by if time permits, plus it's free!>/p>

View from the Toyama City Hall observation tower.

Takaoka City

Takaoka City, nestled northwest of Toyama Prefecture, is a 20-minute local train ride from Toyama Station to Takaoka Station on the Ainokaze Toyama Railway.

Takaoka City – The City of Casting

While Toyama is renowned as the city of glass, Takaoka stands out as the city of metal casting. The Japanese government designated the famous Takaoka douki (copperware) as a traditional craft in 1975. Today, copper alloy casting in Takaoka holds the leading market share in Japan.

Metal casting in Takaoka dates back to the early Edo period (1603-1867). It all began when Maeda Toshinaga (1562-1614), the second-generation lord of the Maeda family who ruled the Kaga domain (modern-day Ishikawa prefecture), relocated to Takaoka in 1609. He brought skilled casting masters with him to establish the craft in the region. Toshinaga provided them with housing and a workspace in what is now known as Kanaya machi, an area still adorned with latticed houses dating back to the Edo period. This district maintains the atmosphere of a bygone era. It has been designated by the Japanese government as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.

During the Edo period, a range of products, including ritual and daily products, were shipped from Fushiki Port to other parts of Japan. During the Meiji period, however, Takaoka copperware gained international acclaim when they started to be showcased at various world expositions.

Kanayamachi District: A traditional metal casting hub, where streets are lined with wooden lattice houses from the Edo period.

As I strolled through the city, the presence of the Takaoka Daibutsu (Great Buddha of Takaoka) – a magnificent seated bronze statue of Amitabha in Daibutsuji Temple – served as a grand reminder of Takaoka's legacy in metal casting.

Standing 16 meters tall and adorned with a halo, this Buddha statue symbolizes the city. It's a testament to Takaoka's exquisite copperware craftsmanship and technique. The current statue, the third incarnation of Buddha, was completed in 1933. Visitors can enter the pedestal to view Buddhist paintings and the wooden head of the previous Buddha statue, which survived the 1900 fire.

The seated Buddha statue in all its glory towering over structures.

Takaoka is the birthplace of the late manga artist Fujiko F. Fujio, known as the creator of Doraemon. For fans of his work, the city hosts a museum dedicated to his life, work, and achievements. I was delighted to discover how Takaoka's traditional metalworking techniques have been uniquely integrated with this world-famous character. A highlight is the Doraemon postbox, crafted from Takaoka copperware, located at Takaoka station. It's not just for show – you can post actual letters!

Takaoka boasts a rich array of cultural heritage, including the Takaoka urushi lacquerware, the traditional Mikurumayama Festival featuring ornate wooden floats, the historic earthenware warehouses lining Yamachosuji street, and the National Treasure Zuiryuji Temple, renowned for its beautifully arranged temple buildings.

While public transport options like trams and local buses are readily available, I highly recommend walking to immerse yourself in the city's atmosphere.

Amaharashi: A Spectacular Fusion of Sea and Mountain Views!

When you think of nature in Toyama, the magnificent Kurobe Gorge, and the trolly trains that wind through its deep valley might immediately come to mind. However, I ventured to the seaside instead of the mountains on this occasion.

Take the Himi Line from Takaoka Station. As you journey beyond Ecchu Kokubu Station, prepare to be captivated by the breathtaking scenery of Toyama Bay. Get off at the Amaharashi Station, the closest stop to the Amaharashi Coast.

Amaharashi Coast arguably offers the best view of Toyama Bay, set against the majestic Tateyama Mountain Range, soaring 3,000 meters high. Even on a cloudy day when only the silhouette of the mountains is visible, the view is striking, resembling an exquisite ink painting. When the weather is clear, it is an unparalleled spot for photography enthusiasts!

For a unique travel experience from Takaoka to Amaharashi over the weekend, consider the special train 'Belles montagnes et mer,' affectionately known as 'Berumonta.' It is a tourist-focused train operating only on Sundays between Takaoka and Himi. Inside, you'll find the interior beautifully adorned with intricate Inami wood carvings, showcasing Toyama's traditional kogei craft. Booking in advance allows you to indulge in local delicacies and sake, enhancing your journey with exquisite flavors and breathtaking views. However, booking Berumonta tickets as early as possible is crucial, as seats are limited and in high demand.

Matcha ice cream served with traditional Japanese sweets in a café in Amaharashi.

Conclusion

Toyama's culinary landscape is renowned for its exquisite seafood, each season offering its unique delicacy. In spring, the waters teem with firefly squids, a local specialty, while Japanese glass shrimps can be found from spring through summer. As seasons change, autumn and winter bring the most succulent crabs, ensuring that Toyama welcomes you with seasonal treats no matter when you visit.

A giant sushi replica at in Toyama and Shin-Takaoka stations, highlighting the region’s rich seafood offerings. Not edible though!
Discover Iwase’s delectable souvenirs: Dried firefly squids and Japanese glass shrimps, capturing the essence of local flavors.

In March 2024, extending the Hokuriku Shinkansen route from Kanazawa to Suruga will make Toyama even more accessible from the Kansai area, reducing travel time to a minimum of two and a half hours.

Celebrated for its copperware and glassworks, Toyama is a treasure trove of other traditional kogei crafts. These crafts, inherited and refined across generations, epitomized exceptional craftsmanship, including the intricate Inami choukoku (wood carvings) and the high quality Ecchu washi (Japanese paper). Exploring Toyama Prefecture with a focus on kogei, food, and nature offers a unique and enriching experience.

Related Information

Information provided below is as of November 2023. Please check individual official websites for up-to-date information and further details.

<Tourist Information>

Visit Toyama (The Official Toyama Travel Guide) 富山県観光公式サイト

Official website: https://visit-toyama-japan.com/en

TOYAMA NET (Official Toyama City Travel Guide) 富山市観光協会

Official website: https://www.toyamashi-kankoukyoukai.jp/en/

Takaoka Tourism Portal Site 高岡市観光協会

Official website: https://www.takaoka.or.jp/en/?lang=en

<Transport>

Fugan Suijo Line 富岩運河公園水上ライン

Official website: https://fugan-suijo-line.jp/en/
Operates from late March to late November. Check official website for price and more details.

Toyama Chihou Railway (for tram and city bus ticket) 富山地方鉄道

Official website: https://www.chitetsu.co.jp/english/info-for-travelers/tickets.html
There are also one-day and two-day pass combined with railways, convenient for those planning to visit other cities in Toyama Prefecture or Kurobe Gorge.

Belles montagnes et mer (JR West) JR西日本

Official website:
https://www.westjr.co.jp/global/en/train/berumonta/
https://www.jr-odekake.net/railroad/kankoutrain/area_hokuriku/berumonta/

<Places to visit>

Toyama Glass Art Museum 富山市ガラス美術館
Address:
5-1 Nishicho, Toyama City
Hours:
9:30-18:00 (opens till 20:00 on Fridays and Saturdays)
Closed:
First and third Wednesdays, year-end and New Year holidays
Admission Fee:
Permanent exhibition: 200 yen (general) / Admission fee for special exhibitions will vary.
Official website:
https://toyama-glass-art-museum.jp/en/
Baba Family Residence 馬場家住宅
Address:
107-2 Higashi Iwase-cho, Toyama City
Hours:
9:00-17:00 (Admission by 16:30)
Closed:
Year-end and New Year holidays
Access:
About 10-minute walk from the Higashi Iwase station on Toyama Light
Rail or from the Iwase Hama on Fugan Suijo Line
Admission Fee:
100 yen (general). Combined ticket for Baba and Mori Family Residences is available.
Toyama City Hall Observation Tower 富山市役所展望台
Address:
7-38 Sakuramachi, Toyama City
Hours:
Hours change by season. Please check the website for details.
Access:
5-minute walk from Toyama station
Official website:
https://www.toyamashi-kankoukyoukai.jp/en/?tid=201171
Daibutsuji Temple 大佛寺
Address:
11-29 Otemachi, Takaoka City
Hours:
6:00-18:00 (entry to the pedestal)
Access:
3-minute walk from Sakashita-machi stop on Manyo Line or 10-minute walk from Takaoka station
Official website:
https://www.takaoka.or.jp/en/archives/308?lang=en
Fujiko・F・Fujio Hometown Art Gallery 高岡市藤子・F・不二雄ふるさとギャラリー
Address:
Takaoka Art Museum (2F), 1-1-30 Nakagawa, Takaoka City
Hours:
09:30 to 17:00 (Last admission by 16:30)
Closed:
Mondays (unless it is a national holiday) If holiday falls on Monday, the gallery is open and close on the following Tuesday.
Access:
JR Himi Line or Manyo Line (see official museum website for details)
Admission Fee:
500 yen (general).
Official website:
https://fujiko-artgallery.jp/english/
Kokozan Zuiryuji Temple, Takaoka City 国宝高岡山瑞龍寺
Address:
35 Sekihonmachi, Takaoka City
Hours:
9:00-16:30.
In December and January the gate closes at 16:00. Please check the official website for details.
Admission Fee:
500 yen (general)
Official website:
https://zuiryuji.jp/custom15.html

Glossary

Amaharashi coast 雨晴海岸
Ecchu washi (Japanese paper) 越中和紙
Fugan Canal Kansui Park 富岩運河環水公園
Himi 氷見
Inami choukoku (wood carvings) 井波彫刻
Iwase 岩瀬
Kanayamachi 金屋町
kogei 工芸
Mikurumayama Festival 御車山祭
Nakajima Lock 中島閘門
Takaoka 高岡
Takaoka douki (copperware) 高岡銅器
Takaoka urushi lacquerware 高岡漆器
Takaoka Daibutsu (Great Buddha of Takaoka) 高岡大仏
Toyama 富山
Yamachosuji 山町筋