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It is always a pleasure for me to return to museums I have already visited. Sometimes it is to enjoy the familiarity of their surroundings, but I also make sure to go and see museums that have been through a renewal project. Intrigued by the fact that the Kyoto Municipal Museum reopened in 2020 after three years of closure, I paid a visit to see what had been carried out and how this institution had evolved. And what I saw was captivating. I was not only impressed by how attractive the new additions are but also pleasantly surprised by how much of the original museum has been respectfully preserved and given a new life.

The first obvious change is the name. Now commonly called the Kyoto City KYOCERA Museum of Art, the institution acknowledges with this renaming the support it received for this major overhaul from the Kyocera Corporation, a global company founded in Kyoto in 1959. The museum now has a new entrance, a new wing for exhibitions, a space for emerging artists, a wonderful garden, and a very pleasant café, among its many new exciting features.

Approaching the museum, I notice a long glass frontage resembling a ribbon. This attractive opening now welcomes the public at ground level. Also part of the dramatic enhancing of the building, there is a large plaza facing the entrance where visitors can gather. Walking through and inside, I reach the Central Hall and take in its impressive dimensions (the ceiling height is 16 meters). From here I can appreciate the tasteful renovation program led by architects Jun Aoki and Tezzo Nishizawa. Interestingly, Jun Aoki became the museum’s director. There is an openness and lightness of touch I enjoy, in the thin columns and helical staircase, as well as in calm palette of colours. I first walk towards the South Wing to see works of art from the museum’s permanent collection. The latter consists of over 4,400 pieces of modern art created by artists active in Kyoto between the Meiji and Showa periods (late 19th to late 20th century). Their display rotates seasonally. Having admired masterpieces by painters such as Takeuchi Seiho (Posing for the first time, 1913; After a Squall, 1935) and Uemura Shoen (The Flowers of Life, 1899; Waiting for the Moon, 1926), I decide to head towards Higashiyama Cube, a completely new wing with state-of-the-art facilities dedicated to the presentation of contemporary visual culture in all its aspects. Indeed, the shows taking place here have a broad scope. The curator tells me that their focus might range from fashion to photography and manga for example. Among the recent exhibitions were the special exhibition “Visionaries: Making Another Perspective” and the Kyoto City Museum of Art’s 90th Anniversary Exhibition, “Takashi Murakami Mononoke Kyoto.”

Having enjoyed the exhibition, I take the time to appreciate two wonderful features that were brought about by the renovation. Thanks to a new, long glass wall running at the back of the edifice, it is now possible to fully admire the substantial garden that stands to the rear of the museum. I learn that a restaurant is currently under construction at Ohsui House, a historical building within the garden. Next, it is particularly enjoyable to see the garden from higher up, thanks to the terrace situated above Higashiyama Cube. From there, it is a thrill to also see the panorama of Higashiyama, a well-preserved historic district to the east of Kyoto famed for its long-standing association with traditional culture and its forested hills. The rooftop is handsomely covered with wood and brick, and I like how their colours marry well with those of the original building, itself made of brick and reinforced concrete.

Curious about the latter and its history, I explore further. The museum opened its doors in 1933 as the Kyoto Enthronement Memorial Museum of Art, to commemorate the 1928 coronation of emperor Hirohito. Due to this connection with the imperial family, this was a prestigious project and therefore its design was outstanding and luxurious materials were used. I spot many of the original elements that have been preserved throughout the building, for example the grand staircase made with marble imported from Europe, moulded ceilings with intricate decoration, and the colourful stained glass.

The Kyoto City KYOCERA Museum of Art successfully wrote a new chapter in its long history. I am admirative of how it managed to renovate and stay relevant for a new century, while also preserving its history and character. With its rich and varied program of exhibitions, it is undeniably appealing to all visitors. Another engaging quality I notice is that many parts of the building are accessible for free (fees for special exhibitions vary).