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Iwami Art Museum

The Iwami Art Museum forms part of the Shimane Arts Center, a remarkable public cultural space established in 2005 thanks to the determination of local politicians and residents. The Iwami Arts Theatre was also created alongside the Museum. Both facilities are fantastic culture bearers for the Shimane region - Iwami being the old name of the province located in the western part of the region. An overlooked gem, the Shimane Arts Center is located in the city of Masuda.

My first impression is delight and surprise upon discovering the architecture. It is the work of Hiroshi Naito who arranged the Center’s generous volumes around a spacious courtyard, now a magnet for children and adults alike. At the centre of the courtyard a large, square, shallow water basin reflects the sky. The most outstanding feature of the edifice is undoubtedly its outer surface: it is entirely covered with local roof clay tiles called ‘sekishu’. The clay’s high iron content gives the whole complex a distinctive reddish-brown tone and a sheen I find very attractive. Depending on the sunlight, its appearance changes from moment to moment. I particularly like how the building’s exterior is not at all uniform, the tiles presenting a multiplicity of warm clay-like hues.

A series of gable roofs gives the Center its surprising nickname of ‘Grand Toit’ meaning ‘large roof’ in French, which being French myself, makes me feel at home. Grand Toit is a true object of pride for the community who relishes the local tiles reference. Stepping inside the large foyer I enjoy the noticeable contrast with the building’s outer appearance. The ceiling, tall pillars and walls are all made of concrete with an attractive wooden planks texture. I observe that the floor, being made of quince wood, presents a beautiful deep red tone.

Within the complex the Iwami Art Museum occupies four galleries and I admire their generous proportions. One is for special exhibitions and three are dedicated to the permanent collection, which was assembled from the year 2000 and covers a broad range of fields. I noted three specific areas of particular focus: art connected to the Iwami area; fashion; and artists connected to Mori Ogai, a Meiji period literary figure from nearby town of Tsuwano who championed Western-style painting. Among the Japanese art collection, while a few pieces date from the Edo period, most are from the 20th century, with works by Takeuchi Seiho, Hashimoto Meiji, Kuroda Seiki, Kishida Ryusei and Kazuki Yasuo. There are also more recent works by Kusama Yayoi and Morimura Yasumasa.

Fashion constitutes an important part of the collection. This particular emphasis was without doubt inspired by internationally renowned Hanae Mori, born in Shimane in 1926, who was the first Asian fashion designer to enter haute couture circles. The museum holds many of her creations, from exquisite evening gowns that integrate Japanese and Western elements with utmost elegance, to her costumes for Japanese film, which are also important in tracing the cultural history of Japan [an exhibition dedicated to Hanae Mori is in planning for next year at the museum; the dates are not yet released]. I find the display of fashion pieces very alluring as the museum makes the most of its well-proportioned galleries, using mannequins to give life to the garments and presenting alongside them related works such as drawings and posters. Clothes by Western designers such as Paul Poiret and Madeleine Vionnet also form part of this handsome collection, as well as photographs by Richard Avedon. The permanent collection is presented via rotating thematic displays, the museum also holds special exhibitions. English information is available (Google Arts & Culture).

Located under the same roof as the Iwami Art Museum, the state-of-the-art Iwami Arts Theater has two halls. An eye-catching main hall can accommodate 1,500 spectators. I admire the beauty of the origami-like design of the bare concrete walls, which I am told generates great acoustics. In a nearby smaller hall, traditional Masuda string puppet can be enjoyed twice a year.

Grand Toit is an inspired place that combines the fields of visual arts, music and theatre. In addition, it occasionally holds workshops (upcoming ones include Iwami tea culture and Shimane plant dyeing). I understand why it is treasured by the local community and I find it a great attraction for visitors. Its proximity to the Hagi-Iwami airport makes it a convenient starting point for the discovery of a region rich in history, attractions and natural beauty.