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Tracing Resilience and Harmony Along Tohoku’s Coast — From Jodogahama to Cat Island – Part 3

Tashirojima: Where Humans and Cats Live in Harmony

After the solemn weight of memory and resilience in Ishinomaki, the journey to Tashirojima feels like a gentle exhale. From Ishinomaki (Chuo) Port, visitors can board the Ajishima Island Liner, which operates two ferries to Tashirojima—a quiet island known as a haven for cats.

On a sunny day, as the ferry pulls away from the city’s edge, it glides across the calm, blue waters of the Sanriku Coast, with the mainland slowly fading into the distance. There’s a quiet sense of anticipation on board—not just for what lies ahead, but for the feeling of entering a place where daily rhythms move at a different, gentler pace.

It’s recommended to disembark at Ohdomari Port and make your way on foot to Nitoda Port. The walking trail winds through peaceful, greenery-lined lanes, past local homes and frequent feline encounters at every turn, offering a deeper connection to the island’s quiet charm. The return ferry to the mainland departs from Nitoda Port, making for a well-rounded and reflective island experience.

Known affectionately as Cat Island, Tashirojima is widely known for its large cat population—so prominent that they are often said to outnumber the island’s residents. The cats roam freely through the island’s narrow paths, sunbathe on fishing nets, and occasionally stop to curiously observe visitors. But this isn’t a novelty for locals—it’s a way of life. Here, cats are treated with care and respect, long believed to bring good fortune and safety to fishermen. The island’s aging population continues to maintain this harmonious relationship, and there’s a quiet balance between welcoming cat-loving travelers and preserving a peaceful, sustainable lifestyle. Signs gently remind visitors not to feed the cats randomly or disrupt their routines. The emphasis is clear: this is the cats’ home, not a zoo.

At the heart of this relationship lies Miyori Daimyojin, a small but meaningful shrine tucked along a shaded path. According to local accounts, it was built after an anchor stone used in fishing preparations accidentally struck and killed several cats, including a mother and her kittens. Moved by the tragedy, islanders began to honor cats as divine guardians believed to ensure safety and good fortune at sea. Even today, locals visit the shrine during the annual festival held on May 5, offering prayers and sake—continuing a heartfelt tradition of gratitude toward the cats that have long watched over the island and its fishermen.

Walking the narrow road from Ohdomari Port to Nitoda Port, where the main cat clusters are found, offers a chance to appreciate the slower pace of island life. Cats stroll beside you, disappear into bushes, then reappear like quiet guides. The forest is never far away, and the sea is always just a turn of the head.

The landscape is modest, but there’s beauty in the small details—a sleeping cat on a sun-warmed stone stair, flowers swaying in the sea breeze, and the gentle hush of a world that has little use for urgency.

Tashirojima isn’t just about cats—it’s about a way of living that values care, coexistence, and calm. It’s a reminder that harmony with nature and with animals isn’t a distant ideal, but something that can be woven into everyday life.

Important Notice:

• Feeding the cats on Tashirojima Island is strictly prohibited.
• No dogs are allowed on the island (except for service dogs).

Part 1 – Coastal Encounters: Goishi’s Rock Formations and Miyako’s Local Charm
Part 2 – Remembering and Rebuilding: Stories of Resilience in Ishinomaki