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Tracing Resilience and Harmony Along Tohoku’s Coast — From Jodogahama to Cat Island – Part 2

Remembering and Rebuilding: Stories of Resilience in Ishinomaki

After experiencing the quiet beauty and coastal charm of Goishi Coast and Miyako, the Michinoku Coastal Trail leads us farther south into Miyagi Prefecture, where the journey takes on a more reflective tone. In Ishinomaki City, one of the communities most profoundly affected by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami, visitors are invited to engage not only with the landscape, but also with the collective memory and strength of the people who live here. It is a place where resilience is not just a theme—it’s part of everyday life.

Miyagi 3.11 Tsunami Disaster Memorial Museum

The Miyagi 3.11 Tsunami Disaster Memorial Museum, located in the coastal district of Minamihama, was established to preserve the memory of the March 11, 2011 disaster and ensure that its lessons are passed on to future generations. Opened in 2020, the museum serves as both an educational space and a place of reflection. Through detailed exhibits, documentary footage, and first-hand accounts, it conveys the scale of the tragedy while focusing on the experiences of the local people who lived through it.

The building itself is circular, with a diameter of about 40 meters, and supported by a scattering of slender columns that give the structure an open, airy feel. Its transparent glass walls create a seamless connection with the surrounding landscape, offering panoramic views of significant local landmarks, including Mt. Hiyori, Zenkaida Inari Shrine, the Kadonowaki Elementary School Ruins, the Memorial Circle, and even the distant smoke rising from Nippon Paper Industries’ plant chimneys. As the pine trees planted around the museum grow, the architects envisioned the boundary between inside and outside gradually fading, symbolizing the passage of time and the intertwining of memory with daily life.

A particularly striking detail is the roof’s northern edge, which rises to 6.9 meters—the height of the tsunami when it reached this area. This subtle but powerful design choice anchors the building to the event it commemorates, making the structure itself part of the storytelling. Visitors can learn about the region’s geography, the science behind the earthquake and tsunami, and the impact on daily life through manga, interactive touchscreen panels, 3D images, and actual items recovered from the aftermath.

One of the most compelling aspects of the museum is how it highlights local voices—through recorded testimonies and curated personal stories accessible via touch panel screens, visitors can begin to understand the emotional weight of the disaster and how the community has worked to rebuild. The museum doesn’t shy away from the hardship, but it is also not defined by loss; it emphasizes the spirit of learning, preparation, and hope.

Kadonowaki Elementary School Ruins

Just a short walk from the museum, the Kadonowaki Elementary School Ruins* serve as a powerful extension of the memorial experience. Preserved in place, the school building stands as a stark reminder of the destruction caused by the tsunami. Charred walls, shattered windows, and exposed staircases reveal the brutal impact of the event, providing a visceral glimpse into what was left behind. At the entrance, the school’s former gym has been renovated to display tsunami-damaged vehicles and temporary housing units used by displaced residents for years after the disaster.

* The official name of the site is Ishinomaki City Elementary School Ruins. While often referred to as school ruins, the facility also functions as a museum, with adjacent buildings (such as the former gymnasium) housing exhibition rooms.

Informational panels throughout the site explain the events of March 11, 2011, including how students and teachers successfully evacuated to higher ground—highlighting the importance of regular disaster drills.

Inside the adjacent building, exhibits delve deeper into the region’s disaster history, including geological findings of past tsunami events and projection mapping of seismic activity across Japan from 2000 to 2021.

Other displays document the school’s legacy, show surviving school items, and share the voices of those who lived through the tragedy through poetry, paintings, and video testimonies. These exhibits are not meant to sensationalize but to educate, inspire, and preserve collective memory.

As visitors move through the site, the contrast between the frozen moment of destruction and the gradually recovering city beyond invites quiet contemplation. Together with the museum, the school stands as a lasting symbol of remembrance and resilience—underscoring Ishinomaki’s continued efforts to learn from the past and move forward with strength and compassion.

Culinary Stop – Ajisai Shinya, Ishinomaki

After a day of remembrance and reflection, a visit to Ajisai Shinya offers a satisfying return to the warmth of daily life in Ishinomaki. This cozy izakaya, located in the heart of the city, is known for its creative take on seasonal local dishes, many of which highlight the region’s fresh seafood and produce. The menu changes frequently, and each dish is thoughtfully prepared—whether it’s seared katsuo (bonito) garnished with onion and garlic, a colorful platter of assorted sashimi, a steaming bowl of seri nabe (a hot pot featuring local dropwort greens and chicken meatballs), or sliced figs with sesame dressing.

Even the otoshi—a small appetizer automatically served to guests at izakayas (Japanese pubs)—is a pleasant surprise. One example is somen noodles in soy milk broth with clams, a dish so flavorful and complex it could easily stand on its own. The sake list is equally well-curated, offering regional varieties from sake-renowned prefectures like Akita and Yamagata.

The atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming, with warm hospitality from the staff and a lively hum of conversation throughout the space. It’s the kind of place where locals unwind after work, and travelers quickly feel at ease—especially with tatami-style seating available for those who prefer a traditional setting. Ajisai Shinya isn’t just about good food; it’s about the joy of eating well, sharing moments, and rediscovering comfort in the everyday—something especially meaningful in a city that continues to heal and thrive.

Part 1 – Coastal Encounters: Goishi’s Rock Formations and Miyako’s Local Charm
Part 3 – Tashirojima: Where Humans and Cats Live in Harmony