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Tracing Resilience and Harmony Along Tohoku’s Coast — From Jodogahama to Cat Island – Part 1

Coastal Encounters: Goishi’s Rock Formations and Miyako’s Local Charm

The Tohoku region, located in northeastern Japan, is made up of six prefectures: Aomori, Iwate, Miyagi, Akita, Yamagata, and Fukushima. One of the features that sets it apart from other regions is its striking coastline. Stretching along the Pacific Ocean, the Sanriku coast is renowned for its dramatic rias coastline—a landscape of deeply indented bays, steep cliffs, and hidden coves—particularly along the shores of Iwate and northern Miyagi Prefectures. The northern part of the coast, in Aomori and northern Iwate, features scenic marine terraces that contrast beautifully with the rugged ria formations to the south.

Known for its deep-rooted history in fishing and maritime culture, this coastline also stands as a powerful symbol of recovery and resilience following the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami. Today, travelers can experience ever-changing seascapes, warm local hospitality, and stories of hope along the Michinoku Coastal Trail—a scenic route that traces over 1,000 kilometers through the heart of this remarkable region.

Goishi Coast & Anatoshi Boat Ride

Our journey begins at the Goishi Coast, a six-kilometer stretch along the Massaki Peninsula in Ofunato City, Iwate Prefecture. Its natural beauty earned it designation as both a Place of Scenic Beauty and a Natural Monument in 1937. Following the 2011 disaster, the area was incorporated into Sanriku Fukko (Reconstruction) National Park, which reorganized and expanded national park boundaries across the region.

The name Goishi (literally “Go stones”) comes from the smooth, black pebbles found along the shore. Over time, the waves have polished these stones to resemble the pieces used in the traditional board game Go. Winding coastal trails lined with pine and cypress trees—some planted centuries ago as windbreaks—lead you past dramatic cliffs and scenic overlooks.

One of the best ways to appreciate this unique landscape is to take a 40-minute sightseeing cruise operated by a local fisherman. As the boat glides through emerald and turquoise waters, the contrast between the vivid sea and the neutral grey rock formations creates a calming, immersive experience. The sea breeze on your face and the rhythmic sound of waves set a tranquil mood as you admire rock formations sculpted by nature.

Anatoshi-iso Rock

One highlight of the boat ride is the Anatoshi-iso Rock, a massive formation just offshore that features three natural sea arches, created over time by the constant force of the waves. What makes this formation even more fascinating is its geological structure—the exposed layers of rock are sharply tilted, almost vertical, revealing a dramatic uplift that dates back approximately 130 million years, to the Cretaceous period.

Its name, Anatoshi-iso, reflects both its form and function: derived from Japanese characters meaning “hole” (ana), “to pass through” (toshi), and “shore” (iso).The boat passes through at least one of these arches depending on the weather, giving passengers a close-up look at the geological wonder from sea level. It’s a breathtaking sight that captures both the power and the patience of nature.

Cliffside Trail and Scenic Vantage Points

Another great way to explore the Goishi Coast, which is part of Sanriku Fukko National Park, is on foot via a scenic cliffside walking trail that extends for several kilometers along the coastline. Several observation decks along the way offer sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and the crashing waves below. From these vantage points, you can experience the raw beauty and scale of the coastline, especially during high tide or stormy weather, when the waves thunder against the rocks in dramatic fashion.

Culinary Stop – Misaki, Ofunato

Exploring the dramatic rock formations of Goishi Coast and enjoying the scenic Anatoshi boat ride can certainly work up an appetite. A stop at Misaki Restaurant, located right along the coastline, offers the perfect opportunity to refuel with local flavor. The restaurant is well known for its use of fresh Sanriku seafood, served in a variety of dishes that showcase the natural taste of the region’s coastal bounty.

Set beside Ebisu Beach, a small cove located within the Goishi Coast, Misaki offers panoramic ocean views, making it a popular rest stop for both locals and travelers. Although the restaurant sustained significant damage during the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and temporarily considered closure, it has since been rebuilt and continues to welcome guests. Its dedication to using locally sourced ingredients and its unique location make it an ideal lunch stop after exploring the coastal walking trails and nearby attractions.

Jodogahama Beach

Further along the coast lies one of Iwate’s most beloved natural treasures—Jodogahama Beach, meaning “Pure Land Beach.” Located in Miyako City, Iwate Prefecture, the name, inspired by the Buddhist concept of paradise, was bestowed nearly 300 years ago when the chief priest of Jōanji Temple visited the site and exclaimed, “This is truly like paradise itself.”

From the moment you arrive at the beach area, the scene feels otherworldly: brilliant white volcanic rocks jut out from the water as if sculptures, green pine trees cling to their surfaces, and the crystal-clear bay laps gently at the smooth pebbled shoreline. It’s easy to understand why it’s been endowed with the concept of paradise for its name. The stillness and quiet make you forget the passage of time.

But there’s more to Jodogahama than just its beauty. It’s a gateway to ocean adventures and quiet reflection alike. Visitors can take a guided boat tour, gliding through the calm inlet for panoramic views of the surrounding cliffs and caves. If you prefer a more personal experience, rental rowboats and paddleboats are available, offering a hands-on way to explore the gentle waters.

On land, a well-maintained trail network takes you through coastal forests and scenic viewpoints. In summer, the beach becomes a popular swimming spot, with safe, shallow waters ideal for families. Nearby, the Jodogahama Visitor Center provides interactive exhibits and information about the region’s geology, marine life, and tsunami history—making it a meaningful stop for travelers seeking deeper understanding.

Culinary Stop – Sakedokoro Shimaya, Miyako

After a day immersed in coastal beauty, there’s no better way to end your journey than with a satisfying meal. At Shimaya in Miyako City, you’ll get a taste of the Sanriku sea. From the outside, Shimaya appears to be a humble neighborhood eatery—but step inside and you’ll find the flavors of Sanriku come alive in generous, beautifully plated dishes that showcase fresh local seafood and thoughtful preparation.

To round out the experience, a curated selection of regional sake from across Tohoku is available, including renowned rice-producing areas like Iwate, Akita, and Yamagata. It’s the perfect way to complement the meal and explore Japan’s rich sake traditions, one cup at a time.

The atmosphere is relaxed and unpretentious, with warm service that makes travelers feel welcome, even on their first visit. Shimaya is a favorite among locals for a reason: it delivers a true taste of Miyako with every bite.

Part 2 – Remembering and Rebuilding: Stories of Resilience in Ishinomaki
Part 3 – Tashirojima: Where Humans and Cats Live in Harmony